Paul Do Mar, Hidden Madeira

Paul do Mar is a village on the South coast of Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal. Fish is landed daily to the modernised port. The port may have modern facilities but it is not unusual to see fisherman sitting cross-legged baiting long lines.

To get to Paul do Mar hop onto the "rapido" (fast road) from Funchal and drive west.

Try to ignore the turning to the beaches at Calheta - you are heading for something far more exciting! Carry on through the tunnel systems, still on the fast road until you find yourself at the big oval roundabout with signs to Jardim da Mar and Paul do Mar.

The views are captivating and the roads winding and steep. Pull over and park safely for that "Kodak" moment. One such viewing point, "Miradoura" is just before the tunnel entrance that takes you through to Paul do Mar. Just pull over for a moment or two to take in the waves crashing onto the coast at Jardim do Mar. In the winter, the surfing community, will be sitting straddling their waxed long boards, waiting for the perfect wave. They look like a row of black ducks until you realise the full perspective - they are not that small it is the waves that are THAT big!

Drive through the long tunnel to Paul do Mar. Take the turning directing you to Porto; it is on the left immediately at the end of the tunnel.

You will see a café on the right. Under the shade of the giant rubber tree fishermen waiting to go to sea are playing cards and dominos. Follow the road down to the harbour where it is good to park.

The Bayside restaurant is a must for coffee and a piece of cake. Sit back and watch the people. People working, people playing, children fetching fish for supper in plastic bags they can barely carry...

The harbour has a collection of fishing boats from brightly coloured open, wooden, clinker-built boats to a large red metal boat, looking serious and tied up to the biggest wall in the harbour.

Walk out onto the harbour wall to look back at the village. The old village is hunkered down under the large cliff that runs across the back of the entire village. There is an impressive waterfall by the side of the harbour buildings. Off to the East you will see Jardim do Mar balanced on the shelf of land under a continuation of the same mountain and cliff. Paul do Mar village heads west, past the gravel and rock beach with the beautiful statue of a fisherman gazing out on the ocean. Follow the little road near the rubber tree This road is not driveable for the first several hundred metres. It is little more than a wide path. Houses crowd each other from both sides of the grey and white calcada paving, characteristic of Madeira.

Stroll from the harbour through the narrow street and notice the variety of house sizes, colours and decoration. It is very much of a time gone by compared with other locations.

There are cafes and bars dotted along the way. At the end of the tessellated paving there is a café/restaurant on the left. It doesn't have a view and they certainly don't speak English but they serve fantastic fresh fish!

If you venture right to the end you'll find Maktoub's - a trendy bar serving the local surfers. The view from this bar is of the ocean in one direction and the mountainside in the other. The staff are friendly and interesting. This bar just highlights the difference between Funchal; much visited by tourists with lots of facilities and organised "tourism" and Paul do Mar, with quirky, working locals and interesting cafes. Visit both and tell me which you prefer?

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