The Hidden Past of Ponta Do Garajau in Madeira

By Robert P James

The nature reserve at the Ponta do Garajau in Madeira is a lovely area for the tourist to visit. The car park and beach facilities have recently been upgraded. Nearby, there stands a monument that has a structure that is instantly recognised throughout the world. The local flora and fauna is protected in its natural state and the coastal views are unspoilt and spectacular. In addition, the marine conservation area is popular with scuba divers. It is perhaps somewhat disturbing then to discover that all this natural beauty hides a macabre past.

The British have had a long association with the economic development of Madeira. In particular, during the 18th and 19th centuries, many British ex-patriots settled in Madeira and set about making their fortunes. Others, less fortunate, flocked to the island in an effort to alleviate their symptoms of consumption. It was long thought that the pure and temperate climate of the archipelago was beneficial for tuberculosis suffers.

British heritage can be clearly identified all over the present day island.

The famous Reid's Palace Hotel, Blandy's Wine and the embroidery industry are all examples of current Madeiran businesses that have a historical British connection.

Walk around Funchal, the island's capital, and you will come across place names, monuments and establishments that are clearly linked to former British residents and the English language.

Further, the profusion of the traditional manor estates, each known locally as a Quinta, belie the fact that many of their number have sprung from a British heritage. Indeed, the profusion of formal, large, walled gardens and the extent of non-indigenous plant species that abound all bear the hallmarks of affluent English and Scottish forebears.

Nowadays, the British have lost their once powerful grip when it comes to controlling local companies. However, visitors from Britain still account for a major portion of Madeira's income. Indeed, whilst the chill of winter blows back home, British holidaymakers escape in droves to this ever green, ever warm island paradise. The Brits truly keep the local tourism industry afloat whilst it awaits the summer influx of holidaymakers from Spain and mainland Portugal.

Tourism brings us to the Ponta do Garajau headland. For, this is one tourist destination that is surely due to grow in popularity.

Madeira is an island of dramatic topography, spectacular vistas and stomach churning sheer drops. The Ponta do Garajau headland encompasses the full gambit of everything Madeira has to offer. So much so that the area was declared a nature reserve in 1982. Subsequently, in 1986, a marine conservation area was created off the Ponta do Garajau coastline to a depth of 50 metres.

However, in an island brimmed full of stunning landscapes, the authorities realised that something extra was needed. The region needed to become economically viable in order to preserve its protected status. Thus, in recent years, much development has taken place.

Of course, almost mandatory in today's automobile culture, parking facilities have been introduced. A nearby cable car is newly installed and will ferry tourist down to the refurbished beach area. New stone paving leads to a freshly engineered dirt track that guides tourists to the headland's furthest extent. Here, you can wonder at the magnificent coastal panorama that stretches out before your eyes. Meanwhile, beneath the waves, a steady flow of scuba divers experience the untouched habitat of the marine conservation area.

There are even plans to build up-market holiday accommodation in the vicinity.

The aim is obvious to encourage more tourists to visit.

In the past, this headland was known as the Brazen Head by the many British ex-patriots who made Madeira their home. But, in times past, this was a place that most people wished to avoid - and it was a journey of which many only made one way.

Prior to the 1770's, local Madeiran law forbid any person not of the Roman Catholic faith to be buried on the island. This edict hit the British community in particular. Not only were there many British families living on Madeira, but most were of the Protestant persuasion. As Madeira is a solitary island, situated in the mid Atlantic, hundreds of miles from mainland Europe, transporting the deceased to a more obliging jurisdiction was not an option.

For the relatives of the newly deceased, a haunting problem of disposing of the mortal remains remained. The Brazen Head - with its mystical association of giving answers to obtuse problems - provided to be the unfortunate solution.

Because of its geological properties - a narrow headland, with sheer drops into relatively deep waters - the journey along the Brazen Headland was the ultimate one that many deceased British took on Madeira. The corpses were transported to the furthest extent of the slither of land that protruded into the Atlantic and, from there, thrown to the watery grave waiting below. The more prosperous families could organise or hire a small rowing boat to give their loved ones a more serene departure, but the end result was still the same. The corpses were weighted and given up to the ocean, sinking to the sea bed; future generations being robbed of a permanent grave to which pay their respects.

It is a regretful episode in history that thankfully came to an end with the official granting of a British cemetery in the 1770's. The less insular British, not only employed the cemetery grounds for their own kith and kin, but also provided plots for other nationalities.

Today, one of the main attractions at the Ponta do Garajau is the large statue of Christ the Redeemer which gazes out over the expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. It is identical in form to the Statue of Christ that stands, with outstretched arms, overlooking Rio de Janeiro. You may be forgiven for believing that this statue was erected in response to the many deceased souls whose mortal remains perished at this location. In fact, the statue was inaugurated in 1927 and has no link with the Brazen Head's macabre past. But, that story, as they say, is for another time.

Robert James B.Sc (Hons) is the editor of the independent Madeira travel guide. He has been a freelance writer for over 30 years and has had many articles published in the trade press.

For further information, read the Ponta do Garajau tourist guide.

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